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October 8, 1999
ELECTION 99
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An Ayurvedic Kitchen in America
Shoba Narayan While every culture has its own "folk-remedies," Indian cuisine has made an art and a science out of it. Since 700 BC, when the first book on Ayurveda was written, Indians have been experimenting with a diet for balance and health. Ayurveda is the "science of life." It is a holistic system of health that takes into account everything from breathing (prana) to posture (yoga) to massage (abhyanga). The fundamental philosophy stresses balance -- within the body, with the environment, and with the seasons. Ayurveda categorizes three mind-body types or doshas: vata, pitta and kapha. Vata controls movement throughout the body, and therefore Vata imbalances manifest as constipation (lack of movement in the digestive tract), or insomnia (nervous imbalance). Pitta governs the bodily functions associated with heat, and its imbalances manifest in ulcers (to much heat in the stomach) or premature graying and balding (too much Pitta). Kapha controls structure and fluid balance, and its imbalances manifest as obesity or asthma (too much fluid in the body). If there was one word to describe a Vata type, it would be flighty. For Pittas, it would be intense, and for Kapha, it would be slow. Which one of these are you? Perhaps you are a combination of two types. Diet is a key element for balancing the body. Ayurveda recognizes six tastes: sweet- sugar, milk, rice, sour -- yogurt, lemon, cheese, salty -- salt, seaweed, pungent (spices, ginger, hot peppers), bitter (green, leafy vegetables, turmeric and astringent- beans, lentils. Each of these tastes have a specific effect on the body. One of the easiest ways to practice Ayurveda is to include all the six tastes in every meal. Adjusting to the environment is the third factor. Generally, fall and winter are Vata seasons, and people are prone to cold, dry Vata ailments like arthritis and rheumatism. Ayurveda recommends that people eat warm, oily, hearty meals in this season to lubricate the dryness of Vata. Spring is Kapha season when common colds, and bronchial ailments manifest themselves. Drying foods like honey and millet are recommended for this season. Summer is the season for sunburn, acne, heat stroke -- all Pitta imbalances. Cool, light fruits and salads help balance the heat of Pitta. One way to balance your diet is to visit an Ayurvedic practitioner who will feel your pulse to determine your mind-body type, and prescribe a diet for you. Call the Maharishi Ayurveda Health Center in Lancaster, Massachusetts (508) 365-4540, for the address and telephone number of an Ayurvedic physician near you. Indian cuisine is based on Ayurveda. Here are recipes culled from my mother and grandmother's kitchen- that are based on the principles of Ayurveda. The more esoteric ingredients are available at Indian grocery stores. They can be mail-ordered from www.namaste.com. Paati's Green Bean Soup This is a hearty soup that blends the down-to-earth flavor of moong dal with the mild sweetness of coconut and milk.
Wash and soak the beans overnight. Combine all the ingredients in a large vessel, and boil over a low flame for several hours, till the milk reduces to half the quantity, and the beans are squishy. Garlic Rasam This is the vegetarian alternative to chicken soup. Indian mothers prepare this when their children are sick. The ginger and garlic give it a characteristic spicy flavor.
Soak the tamarind/Tamcon in 3 cups of warm water till it dissolves. Chop the garlic into small pieces. Heat the oil in a vessel and add mustard seeds. When the mustard seeds begin popping, add cumin and the chopped garlic. Add salt, turmeric and ginger powder. Pour the tamarind water in and boil over a low flame till the mixture halves in quantity. If the mixture is too tart for your taste, add half a spoon of salt, and some chopped cilantro. Either drink as a soup, or mix it with hot white rice and eat as dinner. Mint Lassi Yogurt is a prized food with the Punjabis. Punjabi women use fermented yogurt as a hair conditioner. They mix yogurt, honey and gram flour (besan) in equal quantities and apply as a facial mask once a week.
Half a cup chopped mint leaves
Beat up all the ingredients in a blender. Garnish with some saffron and serve. Makes 4 tall glasses. Hearty Winter Kichadi This is a warm, nourishing dish that most Indians eat during the change of seasons. Its bland flavor is a perfect foil for the spicy coconut chutney with which it is usually served. In South India, this dish is known as Pongal.
1 cup white rice
Dry roast the split moong dal, mix it with the white rice and add five cups of water. Add the salt, pepper, turmeric, hing, and ginger. Cook it, either in a pressure cooker, or in a pot, till the rice is soft and squishy. In another vessel, add the mustard seeds to the oil. When they start popping add the cumin and cashews. Pour the semi-solid, cooked kichadi from the pressure-cooker and mix well. Garnish with chopped cilantro and serve with coconut chutney. Coconut Chutney
1 cup desiccated coconut
In a vessel, heat oil, and put the mustard seeds in. When they start popping, add the urad dal and remove from stove. Put all the other ingredients into a blender. Blend to a paste, adding more water if necessary. Pour contents of blender into the vessel containing mustard seeds and mix well. Ghee Ghee is one of the most highly-regarded foods in Ayurveda. While modern Indians dismiss it as being "fatty," the ancients used to drink a teaspoon of warm ghee with every meal. And they lived longer than any of us can even hope to! Preparing ghee is a simple, but time-consuming process. I use sweet cream butter -- any brand. Put the butter into a vessel and boil over a low flame, till the mixtures turns golden-brown. It is essential to watch the pot and turn off the stove at the right time to prevent burning of the ghee. A mixture of equal parts of ghee, crushed fresh ginger and brown sugar is an age-old recipe to improve digestion. The remaining four recipes are included to indicate what constitutes a balanced meal. As noted earlier, Ayurveda's primary concerns are variety, harmony and balance. Variety achieved by including the six tastes -- sweet, sour, salty, bitter, astringent, and pungent. Mixing light vegetables with heavy grains achieves balance. Eating unhurriedly in a harmonious atmosphere promotes digestion. Turmeric Rice Basmati is the rice of choice, but jasmine rice is quite good too. Turmeric is considered a natural antibiotic in India, and balances the sweet taste of rice well.
2 cups rice
Wash the rice well. Mix it with the water and turmeric and bring to a boil. Then, let it simmer till the water is absorbed. Spinach Sabji This is a tasty dish in which the tangy taste of tomatoes and fried onions balances the bitterness of spinach.
Spinach greens -- one bunch, or one packet
Wash the spinach and put into closed container with a little water. Steam it over a low flame. When it cools, blend it into a paste. Fry black mustard seeds and urad dal till golden brown. Add chopped onion, tomato and chilies. Add salt, and mix spinach paste from the blender. Squeeze half a lemon just before serving. Potato Lentil Gravy Traditionally, this gravy is mixed with the rice, and the vegetables are eaten on the side. This is a spicy dish and should be prepared according to tolerance.
3 medium sized potatoes
Chop the onions and potatoes and keep aside. In a vessel, add oil and black mustard seeds. When the mustard seeds pop, add cumin, garam masala powder, salt and turmeric. Add onions and potatoes and keep stirring till the onions are golden brown. Add three cups of water and cook till potatoes are soft. Finally, add lentils and mix well. Garnish with chopped cilantro and serve. Cucumber Raita This is a bland, cool dish that balances the spiciness of the other dishes. Other vegetables like grated carrots, chopped onions and tomatoes can be used instead of, or in combination with the cucumber.
2 cucumbers
Slice and grate cucumbers. Mix it well with yogurt and buttermilk. Season with salt and lemon and serve. Disclaimer: The opinions and conclusions expressed in this article are those of the author alone and do not necessarily reflect the views of rediff.com. |
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