May 21, 1997
PERSONALITY
TREND
FASHION
SPECIAL
ARCHIVES
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Meher Castelino
Designer: Rocky S
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At first, it was Bhanu Athaiya and her Oscar for Best Costume
Designer for the Richard Attenborough opus, Gandhi. But the
international attention was momentary -- and India was once again
relegated to the status of creative artisan.
Which has, for many years, been her standing on the international
fashion scene. Acclaimed designers like Valentino, Ungaro, Escada,
Ralph Lauren and Ferre have used master Indian craftsmen to lend
shape and dazzle to their designs.
Designer: Pawan Aswani
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And then, India was the flavour of the month once again, thanks
to a glamorous cricket icon and his beautiful young bride. Though
the spectacular bridal outfit was not eventually worn on the occasion,
the international spotlight focussed on Tarun Tahiliani -- the
Indian designer initially chosen to create Jemima Goldsmith's
bridal outfit for her Islamic wedding with Imran Khan.
Spring/Summer '97 will see a continuation of that nascent trend,
Designers: Salim Asgarali
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with Indian designer labels gracing the racks of Europe. Eight
Indian designers, who presented their Spring/Summer '97 lines at
the Idego fashion fair in Dusseldorf, Germany, last September
have already shipped their orders to Europe, Australia and Japan
under their own exclusive labels.
Designers like Hemant Trevedi, Manju and Bobby Grover and Salim
Asgarali were even mentioned in the prestigious Collection
Donna, Italy's fashion Bible that features fashion heavyweights
like Yves St Laurent, Ferre, Versace, Galleon and Christian Doir.
Designer: Hemant Trevedi
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After fighting shy of mainline fashion for years, Trevedi launched
his immensely popular label -- Vedic Mode Designs. His latest collection,
titled the Healing Colours of Ayurveda, dazzled not only the European
elite but even the Indian audience when it was shown last year.
Silk, crepe and chiffon in greys, browns and blacks, printed with
delicate Indian motifs and dazzling bead work were turned into
tunics, jackets, minis, lungis, trousers and skirts. A perfect
blend of the east and west that had buyers rushing to him from
Spain, Morocco and Australia.
Designer: Ritu Beri
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The capital's darling felt a line of burgundy, brown, black and
beige was perfect for the coming fashion season. Embellished with
her characteristic embroidery, her skirts, brief blouses and flowing
overcoats in silks and chiffon retained the ethnic look. But it
was Beri's hand-painted floral organza blouses and saris that
prompted German buyers to place large orders.
Designers: Bobby and Manju Grover
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The Grover look was reminiscent of the wild west. Printed wrap
around dresses, trousers and blouses made casual fashion statements.
The Grovers moved away from their sari/blouse sets and elaborate
ethnic wear and opted for a simple '97 look.
Sexy, skimpy, summer wear, with Kutchi mirror work and embroidered or printed
Indian motifs, from the Rocky S studios gave white
jersey a new image. It was a brief story, with
body suits, shorts and micro minis highlighting the body conscious
look of the season.
Minis and minis and gowns in white jersey and black lurex dominated
Asgarali's evening wear. While his checked cotton line comprising
of shorts, trousers and tiny tops created a casually naughty image.
Designer: Sangeeta Desai
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The zipper, the line's only embellishment, was used in a very
innovative manner. It was this dual look that got Asgarali orders
from European buyers.
Desai's Zodiac collection, which concentrated on beachwear in chiffon, was brief enough to arouse immense interest amongst the German press. The foreign press, familiar with the traditional sari and salwar kameez ensemble, was pleasantly surprised by Desai's Spring/Summer Line. Her collection exposed the west to a daring new Indian image.
Designer: Bhairavi Jaikishen
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The collection, titled Earth, was a medley of chutney, ochre,
orange and brown cotton, with hand painted symbols that made a
dramatic fashion statement. Lungis, tunics, kurtas, skirts, blouses
and slim trousers were daringly accessorised in jute.
Her ivory and cream roughed cotton line was featured in the Best
Seller Show as well as the Professional Magazine at the
Igedo Fair. Orders from Japan will see the Jaikishan line in Japanese
stores as brief minis, bustiers, skirts and sheer jackets.
Page design: Dominic Xavier
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